Wednesday, May 31, 2006

May 29: Finsbury and Clerkenwell

A Bank Holiday urban walk with Richard Challoner. With a vicious wind and little energy after a night at Durrants, my original plans for a huge trek dwindled fairly rapidly, but we did manage to investigate some fine old buildings in this interesting part of London.

Our wanderings included Lubetkin’s Finsbury Health Centre, opened in 1938. Before World War II, Finsbury was a centre of light industry and one of the poorest areas in London. In an era when medicine was still provided by the private sector and charities, the left-wing Finsbury Borough Council was determined to address local problems by building a health centre and other public amenities.

The architect chosen for this bold vision was the Russian émigré Berthold Lubetkin, This was the first local authority commission for an overtly modernist architect. The outcome was one of Britain’s most daring buildings of the time.

Like much of London, Finsbury has seen relentless gentrification. The Progressive Working Class Caterer on Farringdon Road is now the Quality Chop House, but its original name can still be seen. Underneath, its menu included Eggs Benedict Royale and grilled lemon sole with Hollandaise sauce...

Today: 5 miles
2006 total: 190 miles